You want to try some goat brain?

On Friday evening, a few women from the office and I ventured to Muhammad Ali Road (which is pretty cool if you think about it, and here they pronounce it as if it is one word, jumbled together). This is THE Islamic market in Mumbai and it is located in an area that is densely populated by Muslims. Upon arrival, you find the classic “Indian scene.” A narrow lane, apartment buildings on either side with shops on the ground level, street vendors blocking the entrances to the shops, thousands of people walking with a mission (and willing to run you over to accomplish that mission), beggars galore, enough smells to make your nose confused, and noises that make your ears hurt.




The entrance to Muhammad Ali Road.

One of the mosques.


This month is Ramadan, the time when Muslims fast during the sunlight and break the fast at sunset. This is the time, people say, when Muhammad Ali road has the most amazing food. So that’s why we planned the outing.

Every single one of us looked out of place. I was the blonde foreigner. The other women, dressed in western work clothing, stood out as well. Although these women have lived in Mumbai most of their lives, they had never ventured to the famous Muhammad Ali Road. As soon as we entered the narrow lane, we were immediately astounded by the crowds. Within a few yards, we had come across a huge mosque, a massive sweets shop filled with homemade Islamic sweets, and bunches of short, plump, goats walking all around us. There were clothing stores filled with traditional Islamic clothes, and beggars following us every step of the way. We passed by food stall after food stall, with women and men buying food to bring home to mark the breaking of the fast, which was scheduled to happen at 7:20.



Notice the live animals on the right.
Notice the dead animals that I ate on the left.

July 4th hotdogs!



A line of food, for miles.

Cooking somasos (a famous Indian snack).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



 

A traditional snack: sort of like a chicken roll (fried, of course). I enjoyed it.



It must have been clear to everyone that we were lost and confused. Not knowing which food to try first, we eventually stopped at a stall that looked like it had a nice tandoori chicken. So, we tried it. I knew it wasn’t chicken and stopped after my first two bites. After doing some research about what it was, we discovered… well, they were testicles. We all looked at each other in shock. I started bursting out laughing, thinking to myself, “Here we pass all these food stalls, and we decide this one looks the best and the safest, and we end up eating testicles?” I thought they tasted horrible, but some of the women actually liked them. Regardless, once we learned what they were, they went straight into the trash can.


We continued walking down the long narrow lane. People made a point of yelling at us as they encouraged us to try their special dishes. Fact is, with all the crowds, we never made it to the end of the lane because the time was getting close to 7:20 and we wanted to find a proper restaurant in which to sit at a table and eat. (By proper I mean a place with a table and a chair). Sure enough, we found a restaurant where I ended up eating the strangest assortment of goat dishes. I sampled brain, kidney, liver, and heart. I liked the kidney the most and the brain the least. They clearly do not waste any part of their meat. Ever.




Brain, kidney and other body parts before cooked.



Goat brain on the left, kidney on the right.



Some of my colleagues from Russell Reynolds.



Dessert: fried dough soaked in butter.

You can get your hair done and
eat goat brain at the same time.





















Before our "proper" dinner.




Outside Muhammad Ali road.

This was honestly the most fun I have had in Mumbai since coming here. Here is this little piece of something that is so Indian, which is then surrounded by a city trying to be so not Indian. I love adventures like these. This is where most of the Islamic population in Mumbai goes every day. They do not go to the glass buildings of Maker Maxity, or the fancy apartments. They crowd in around Muhammad Ali Road and that makes it worth seeing. It is as if you are walking into a different world. All of the written language is in Urdu, and everyone is wearing completely different clothing. What is also amazing is that these people most likely never leave this area. It is an economy in itself, an ecosystem supported on its own. They won’t go buy goods and products from outside this area, as all of the Muslims support one another. Fact is, it is very rare to see a Muslim in the corporate world. You can find them in the fine arts area (Bollywood especially) but they have yet to make it to the “top” here in India. I have more research to do on this separation and the segregation of the physical Islamic communities but I will report back soon.  

For the rest of the weekend, I spent my Saturday walking around the city exploring the various “sales” going on. Once the monsoons start every single store features a sale for about a month (restaurants, clothing shops, you name it there is a sale sign in front of it). This is a tradition celebrating the arrival of the monsoon because the monsoon dictates India’s economy with the growth of the crops. I then went to go see the movie “The Fault in Our Stars.” I was by myself and it just so happened that I sat next to a single, 30-year-old woman who grew up in Mumbai, went to college in the UK, and has a brother who lives in North Carolina. We talked for a long time before the movie and in the middle of the movie she turned to me, as we were both bawling, and said, “Eat my popcorn.” It was the saddest movie ever. After the credits were over and the janitors were cleaning up, I was still in the theatre crying and trying to get my act together. The janitors were very confused and wondering what to do with me. That moment could have made it on America’s Funniest Home Videos.

On Sunday, I ventured to the touristy part of Mumbai. I visited the Prince of Wales Museum, where I saw sculptures of Hindu Gods from like the second century. I took a Hinduism course this past semester at Wake and I loved seeing the artwork in person. The museum is huge, filled with many historic Indian artifacts and pieces of art. Look below for lots of photos!

Also, for the first time last night, I gave money to a beggar. I think I have been asked for money over 300 times since I arrived in Mumbai. (No exaggeration.) I had just walked out of a nice pizza restaurant and this young lady followed me all the way down the street. Never said a word, just followed with her hand out. And the moment I got in the car and looked her in the eye, I caved. Completely caved, and gave her 10 rs.

Sending you a goat brain for a delicious dinner,

Hannah Dobie

Photos from Prince of Wales museum: